Flowers in Sanuki

Nihon de ha
Boku no itoshiki
Sakura kana



(Sanuki. April, 2008)

Today was a day of flowers. I went to Ritsurin Park and had matcha (green tea) in a traditional tea house. In keeping with tradition, the people seated next to me spoke amiably and we exchanged contact information. I hope that we can become friends. I then went to Jardin (from the French, "garden") to see floral designs. I have posted some of my photographs from Jardin. I went with a close friend who invited me to her house, and I was able to meet and talk with her mother, who is a calligrapher. She brushed the calligraphy above, based on a haiku we wrote together. I felt very warm and welcome. What a wonderful way to start Golden Week.

Shikoku Mura (Shikoku Village)

I visited Shikoku Mura (Shikoku Village), which is an open-air, walk-through museum of sorts. It is a preservation of traditional Japan and Shikoku. It for me brought up the feeling of the Japan I had always seen in films. Its attractions include a bine bridge; Shodoshima Farmers Kabuki Theater; Yamashita family house; Kohno family house; Sugar cane press; Shikoku-mura Gallery; Nanyo tea hall; Bamboo grove; Lighthouse from Okunoshima; Light house from Cape Esaki (and others); Bark-steaming hut; Shimoki family house; Water-powered rice mill; more family residences; an arched bridge; an old fire station; a soy sauce malthouse; and other similarly folksy attractions. This face of Japan is somewhat lost in the city, although elements remain throughout Japan. And, this is preserved. It's not far, and you can get there by public transportation. Here are some of my photographs from my first visit.

Cross this bridge, suspended by vines, to enter

A Kabuki theater that still hosts performances

An old-fashioned residence

Inside the residence

A sugar mill with sakura

Inside the sugar mill

Walkway into the bamboo grove

Water glide outside a small art gallery

Cherry Blossoms in Takamatsu

Today I went to Ritsurin Park to see cherry blossoms. Even though it was raining, it was a wonderful time. The park is so beautiful. It's the kind of place you'd want to walk around, even if you have to put your umbrella up. There are winding paths, ducking in and out of wooded areas, as well as bridges arching over ponds with fish swimming in them. One of the reasons I came to Takamatsu was to experience the natural beauty of Japan, rather than it's intense urban centers, and I am finding just that.

My father sometimes describes these type of images as emblematic of the beginning of time. I know the feeling. When I look at these stalks in the water, I can imagine what ancient poets might have been thinking when they wrote. It was very peaceful and calm. I am going to go again next weekend, with a totally different atmosphere. It will be daytime, and I expect not a rainy day. The next time, there will be a group of about 20 people, and we'll all bring a lunch box and plenty to drink. That's the tradition, so we can all live it up and have a great time together. Ritsurin park is actually really close to my apartment, so I can go there any time. It's just $4 (400 yen) to enter, which in my view is completely worth it. If you're planning to visit Shikoku, definitely don't miss it.

Lastly, my friend and I went to Youme Town, which is a kind of shopping mall with a little bit of everything. There is a grocery store which includes foreign foods and even organic ones, which I didn't know was popular in Japan. There is also a pet store, where I saw the cutest animals. It's definitely worth a trip to Youme Town if you're in Takamatsu and are craving something other than udon shops for a change. You can get Chinese and Korean food as well.

Water

Rain bathes the train windows as announcements flow in Japanese.

Tsugi no eki de gozaimasu. Matsuyama eki desu. Arigatou gozaimashita. Shitsureishimasu, ki wo tsukete kudasai.

An ocean away from home, Shikoku is my island now. Culture shock comes in waves. Things seem upside-down here. Maybe American is upside-down. My perspective is dribbling away.

Dogo town's hot springs attract me, and 3,000 years have aged them. The streetcar to Dogo squeals under rainfall. At the final station, I follow the crowd to the hot springs.

People gush out fresh, clean. I slip off my shoes. Attendants give me a robe, and light streams through milky windows.

Upstairs, I disrobe to bathe. Wooden stools line marble walls. I sit on one and scrub myself before entering the hot spring. Fountains pout ancient water. Understand that water is silent.

Fellow bathers edge away, slightly nervous. I am a guest and often an outsider. Maybe I should say hello? Maybe it's me, not them. I sink in more deeply, saying nothing. I think we're all curious to talk with each other, but none of us has the nerve.

The bath refreshes me, and I dry myself, feeling better. Attendants bring tea. I sit crosslegged and sip, tasting its subtle leaves.

While walking the grounds, I meet a couple. She has lived in Boston, as have I. He speaks Japanese, and she translates. We have coffee, and I'm relieved by their kindness. Why am I in Japan, they wonder.

We chat for an hour but I can't fully explain it. I'm just searching for something pure, like water.

March 2008. Dogo, Japan.

Round One - Japanese Fun Center

I went bowling with friends last night at Round One, a six floor mega entertainment complex. It was about $5 per hour each, and the five of us had a great time until 3am. They have Japanese bowling (mini everything), karaoke, electro-darts, scads of video games like you've never seen, bike racing, skating, and just about every mind-numbing thing you could imagine. It's a great place to go for fun. I don't have the exact address, but if you take a taxi, just say "Round One, kudasai" and they will know it. Have fun!

A Day in Marugame

This weekend, I took the JR Train to Marugame. I went to Zentsuji temple, which has a lot of special features. For 500 yen ($5) you can go to a special hallway downstars in total, total darkness. It's even better if you close your eyes to avoid any ambient light. Touch the left side wall with your left hand, and silently repeat the chant that they tell you before you go inside. It is a bit disorienting to be in total darkness, which adds to the spirituality of the experience. I felt that I was outside of my body while doing the chant. Eventually, the hallway leads to an inner sanctum, where you can pray. For anyone who is interested in Buddhism, I suggest it. After you come up from the passageway exit-side, leave your shoes where you left them before, and take some of the leather slippers for walking around. Directly outside, you can see what is photographed here, and much more.

There was another outdoor temple, whose name I cannot remember. So I'll just tell you a story about it. It's up in the mountains, so you have to walk up and up countless steps. Maybe about 500 or so, winding through trails and trees. The birds were calling. As we walked up, a Buddhist priest was on the way down. As we passed, he simply said, "good day" and we said "good day" and each kept walking. There was nothing particularly special about that moment, and yet there was. For the rest of the day, everyone we passed said good day. Before that moment, everyone had walked silently. After walking to the top, seeing the incense pot and offering some prayers, we walked down as well. Then I went to Marugame Castle.

The view from the top of Marugame Castle's grounds is definitely worth it around sunset time. Toward the end of the day, we slogged up the steep slope to get to the top. The castle itself is closed until the end of February, but there is a great 360-degree view. A man was jogging up the slope as I stood there and the breeze swept by. Anyway, the important this is: what would life be without dinner?

So I went on to Ikkaku, the well-known chicken restaurant. (This character on a lit blue slab is their sign.) I have to say, it fully met my expectations. As we walked in, the greeter bowed, and led us directly to a table. There are two choice, either hina-dori (young chicken) which is soft and easy to eat, or the oya-dori, which is much more chewy, but in many people's view has more flavor. I got the oya-dori and chowed right into it. Hold the bone with a napkin and use chopsticks to help yourself eating it right off the bone. I also ordered a rice dish that came with cubes of chiken in it, as well as a side of soup. (I think that was the tori-meshi, from memory.) The restaurant's reputation holds: it was absolutely delicious, and wonderful way to end the night.

I wonder how they see me...

People told me before I came to Japan that I would probably be stared at quite a bit. That's because I'm a foreigner, or gaikokujin, living and working in Japan. In places like Tokyo, it's quite common. But as one gets farther out into the countryside, naturally, it's less common. At first, I didn't really notice. But today I did notice quite a few people looking at me. Actually, one person seemed to be scared and ran away. Hmm. Am I scary? Haha, I don't think so. But there are reasons for the confusion. I heard that in Japan, men should wear dark colors. So, I wear a black coat and black shoes. When I finish work, I am often still wearing my black suit pants. And it's cold now, so I bought a hat, which is black. Uh oh, that's a lot of black... So that's part of it. I am also about a foot taller than most people, and yes, I'm one of only a few Americans in Okayama right now. I guess I should make more of an effort to fit in and look as friendly as possible. I just wonder, what kind of appearance would make people more comfortable? Any ideas?

Anyway, last weekend I went to beautiful Korakuen, the garden shown in this picture. It was so nice, and the weather was great. You can see from the image what a nice place it is. I had a really good time walking around and taking photos. I wanted to share this image with you all. If you have a chance to visit Okayama, I really suggest going to Korakuen.

Coming up: I have found so many great restaurants here. There are two in particular that I will write about in the near future.

Marugame Castle (丸亀城)

The Castles of Japan notes the history that "The Marugame Castle's tenshu was built in the 17th century. The original castle was destroyed through Tokugawa's policy of one castle per feudal domain, but Yamazaki rebuilt the castle in 1641. The following year, he added more and more to this castle complex and continued to do so for 30 more years. In 1869, a fire destroyed everything except for the tenshu and two gates."

But don't let that stop you. I'm told that it is an excellent place to watch the sunset, and in spring you can view hanami (cherry blossoms). "Kameyama Koen is a park created in the ruins of Marugame Castle. Kameyaka Koen is famous for cherry blossoms, and a cherry blossom festival is held every year. There are about 1,000 sakura trees in the park. The view of cherry blossoms and the donjon is beautiful. Paper lanterns are hung, and visitors can enjoy the cherry blossoms at night." (Go Japan)

See here for location, directions, and practical information. (You can see a larger picture of the park and castle's tenshu on the Japanese page.)

Kochi (高知): A Few Notes

Have you seen this kind of perfect water before? Absolutely perfect blue-green, lapping gently along the shore. Kochi is just inland off the Pacific, and is the capital of Kochi prefecture. The Kochi region is often just called Tosa, because of the local cusine, tosa ryori, which is based on huge plates of sliced fish. If you will be in Kochi in August, check out the Yosakoi dancing festival, which is under-reported. There is plenty of nightlife, and the locals stay out later here than elsewhere in Shikoku.

Godai-san is a mountain-based park. It gives a great view of Kochi Port and is home to the 31st temple on the 88-Temple Pilgrimage. Start with the vista from the Godai Tembo Service Center, where there is also a restaurant and souvenir shop. Head up the stairs to the lookout platform, where you can watch ships in Kochi's harbor. (Let's Go) Unfortunately, no bus lines run to the mountain, and a cab from Kochi station costs almost 2,000 yen (US$20). You can, however, catch a cab from the Kochi Museum of Art, which is much closer to the park.

Naoshima (直島): Art Island

Naoshima (直島) is a small fishing island off the southern Japan coast on the Seto Inland Sea, between Honshu and Shikoku, within eyeshot of the city of Takamatsu.

The image shown here is "The Oval," by Japanese architect Tadao Ando. The Oval is among the collection of art museums on Naoshima island, known as the Benesse Art Site. The museums includes hotel rooms for visitors.

Metropolis City Guide notes that "You could hate contemporary art and still love Naoshima. It's a romantic destination in Japan's version of the Mediterranean-a lush island with crescents of coarse sand lapped by the transparent-green Seto Inland Sea. For art fans it's even better. Perched high on a southern cape looking across the water to Shikoku is the Benesse House Naoshima Contemporary Art Museum. Cai Guo-Qiang's Cultural Melting Bath (1998) exemplifies the mood. The interactive installation -- a Jacuzzi surrounded by Chinese limestone boulders set in a seaside forest -- is perfect for watching the sun set behind the distant Seto Ohashi Bridge." As for transportation, "there are no bridges to Naoshima. The journey into art paradise starts with a short ferry ride, a liquid buffer between harried city and island calm. You wind past small islets and through a narrow channel to arrive at a village. A 15-minute bus ride later, you reach the museum complex."

From what I have seen and read, I believe that Naoshima will not disappoint, whether you prefer art or nature. When I have had the chance to visit, I will write a review and an update.

Benesse House Naoshima Contemporary Art Museum. Gotanji, Naoshima-cho, Kagawa-gun, Kagawa Prefecture. Daily 8am-9pm. Tel: 087-892-2030. Adm: Adults ¥1,000, children ¥500 (free for hotel or camp guests). Hotel price: ¥7,600-50,000/person per night. Pao and tents: ¥4,000-4,500. Meals not included. To reach Naoshima, take a shinkansen to Okayama, then a local train to JR Uno station. Or fly to Takamatsu in Shikoku. Ferries run regularly from both towns. See website for transportation information (English and Japanese)

Setonaikai (瀬戸内海): Sunset Points

One of the best nature experiences is to watch the sunset. It is worth the effort to visit the Setonaikai (Inland Sea) for this. Planet Ware notes that "The Setonaikai is a wide arm of the sea extending between the islands of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu, with about a thousand small islands and islets, magnificent beaches and quiet little coves containing small fishing villages. The exceptionally mild climate ensures a rich and varied pattern of vegetation." Further, "Much of the area was declared a National Park in 1934, including part of the island of Shodojima, the Yashima Peninsula, the island of Sensui, Cape Abuto and Mount Washuzan. The Inland Sea National Park (land are 254sq.mi/ 659sq.km) now extends much farther southwest reaching as far as the coasts of northeastern Kyushu. In the east it extends to the island of Awaji."

Welcome to JP tells us that "The Setonaikai National Park covers the entire expanse of the Inland Sea, measuring about 250 miles/400km and surrounded by the main islands, Shikoku and Kyusyu. The park is home to a thousand small islands, islets and rocks and to the Naruto Strait known for its large whirlpools, called "Uzushio". The Naruto Strait is a narrow channel located between the islands of Shikoku and Awaji, the biggest island in the park. Beautiful beaches, caves, terraced fields and inland sea make this park a popular tourist attraction."

If you want to view the various islands by cruise boat, take a look at Kazenooto. They offer sunset cruises for a variety of prices. (They're expensive, in my view.) There are cheaper ways, such as a ferry. Let's Go Japan says, "Sunport Takamatsu refers to the development around the port, as well as the port itself, which connects Takamatsu to Inland Sea Islands, Kobe, and Osaka. ... Confirm your plans at the Information Plaza outside JR Takamatsu Station (Japanese). Rates to the islands appear to be about 500 yen (US$5).

Takamatsu City Museum of Art

Takamatsu, the capital city of Shikoku, describes the museum on its public web page: "Takamatsu City Museum of Art is a modern building in the heart of the city. It is where you will find Picassos and Chagalls as well as the works of Nagare Masayuki, world famous sculptor, Inokuma Genichiro and Kimura Chuta, both abstract painters, Fujikawa Yuzo, who studied under Rodin in France, Isoi Nyoshin, a living national treasure, lacquerwork artist" and more.

A travel guide describes it as "a bit out of place ... surrounded by restaurants and little boutique stores ... but it puts together nice collections of contemporary and traditional art." From this photo, I'm not sure what they're talking about.

Where is it? 10-4, Konya-machi. Tel: 823-1711. Open Tues-Fri 9:30am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am-5pm. Entry is 200 yen (about US$2) or 150 yen for students. Special shows can cost more.

Dogo Onsen

One of the main attractions to Shikoku is Dogo Onsen. That's in Matsuyama. More details when I've had the chance to visit, but here is what I know so far. First of all, an onsen is a mineral bath. Dogo is Japan's oldest and most famous one. There is a streetcar in the town, still active but rare in Japan. The streetcar can take you to the "onsen town," Dogo. When people mention Dogo Onsen, they are referring not only to the bath house, but to the entire surrounding town.

The streetcar has 5 lines. Line 3 goes from Shieki station to Dogo, and line 5 goes from the JR (Japan Railways) station to Dogo. There actually isn't a line four, because four is not a lucky number in Japan, just as many Western buildings have no 13th floor. Actually, it's best to avoid the number four whenever you can. Take a look at any product packages, and you'll see that they usually come in sets of five.

A simple entry to the Kami-no-Yu (Bath of the Gods) costs 300 yen (about US$3), but you get nothing extra, meaning bring soap and a towel. For another 320 yen, you can borrow a yukata (robe) and receive green tea and rice crackers after your bath.

If you prefer, try the Tama-no-Yu (Bath of the Spirits) for a total of 980 yen (about US$10). It's said to be a step up, but again I've yet to try it.

There is a special bathing room for the Imperial Family, but you can only see it briefly, for 210 yen.

Nearby, check out Isaniwa Shrine. Don't forget to try the local specialty, Botchan Dango, which are balls of mochi rice on a stick. The rice has been pounded into a glutinous paste. The three balls are different colors. One is colored by red beans, the second by eggs, and the third by green tea.

I've heard this is best as an overnight trip. You don't have to spend a lot on hotels, although can if you like. There is the Matsuyama Youth Hostel (where you can also get courses on bending spoons and reading auras), and that costs 2,900 yen a day. Higher on the scale, there is Dogo Kan, which costs at least 17,500 yen and probably more. Both worth exploring, depending on where you are coming from.

U.S. Culture Point: There are just a few onsen in the United States. During my childhood, our family didn't often take baths, actually. Not even in the house, because we used a shower. And, we would shower in the morning to start the day. In Japan, people generally bathe at night in a bathing area, before getting into a bath of clean, hot water, just to soak. Since bathing is so much more common in Japan, there are many onsen. But let's talk about a special one in America, called Ojo Caliente. If you ever visit the state of New Mexico from Japan, please check it out. There is also an onsen in New Mexico that echoes a Japanese onsen, called Ten Thousand Waves. It's up to you. If you've never been to Japan and want that kind of experience, like getting Japanese food in America, I suggest you'd enjoy Ten Thousand Waves very much. If you're already familiar with mineral baths and care more about being surrounded by nature, I suggest a private mineral bath at Ojo Caliente. Ten Thousand Waves does offer private baths, but the last time I checked, their tubs were synthetic, while those at Ojo Caliente felt more natural. In America it is expensive to do this, and it's considered by many to be "a treat." Something special, or a gift item. Few people could afford to visit an onsen every day. So, onsen are not used for general health as much in America.